Romkslrqusz

Not even just parents though.

It also punishes people who go on vacation for a week, have a power outage, get engrossed by a different game, suffer any kind of longer term medical issue, etc. There are dozens of reasons someone could stop playing for a while.

It’s really a bullying mechanic that forces players to keep playing the game for fear of losing their stuff. People should be coming back because the gameplay is fun, not because of the threat of lost progress.

The mechanic would be much more appropriate if it were tied to actual time signed in to the game. I was looking forward to this game and was already going to wait for more polish anyways, but as long as this mechanic exists in its current state I’m completely turned off of it.

Can’t actually buy MacOS, you have to buy their hardware. For the time being connecting with an Apple Account is still fully optional.

This new system does not involve logging in to another machine with credentials. You send an invite, they accept.

I’m pretty sure those ads also have to meet certain criteria though.

Using ABP, I’ve never had a popup ad, full page ad, auto-playing video, or other intrusive form of advertisement. The “acceptable ads” have been quiet and out of the way in what would otherwise be empty space.

With the understanding that some websites and content creators are entirely reliant on ad revenue, I prefer to have those filtered down to those that don’t provide a burdensome experience.

I will say that having a new tab open with a solicitation for a donation / “premium” every single update (so almost daily) is irritating and they better knock that shit off if they don’t want to alienate users.

For HR, I think you’re good to go the way that it is. Hopefully you have the Director’s Cut - they removed the awful yellow filter that the game originally launched with.

You should, it’s quite powerful and can work in tandem with both DMDE and UFS Explorer!

Power cycling the drive reboots and reinitializes it. I’ve mostly seen it with SSDs - you get a few dozen MB worth of reads before it drops out, unplugging and reconnecting a SATA power connector that many times would be real tedious so you automate it with a relay.

I own a repair shop and use USB to SATA adapters all the time. Sector scans, imaging/cloning, and booting live environments.

It has less to do with the medium and more to do with the quality of your chosen adapter.

I have one of the adapter you pictured, ordered it to test it out because it was comparatively low cost. Did not order more.

I have about a dozen of the Sabrent adapters and they see daily use.

USB can actually be ideal in some data recovery scenarios. HDDSuperClone / OpenSuperClone support a relay mode that turns a disk off and back on to regain access after they drop out, and that is reliant on a USB connection.

I don’t understand why you were downvoted for asking this question. I’ve literally watched techs cause this damage by trying to open the lid with the back cover screws removed.

Most laptops have at least one screw on each side that goes through both the back cover and the hinge. If the hinge is normally affixed with 3 screws and you open the lid with one missing, each mount is taking on that extra stress.

Best practice is to reinstall those screws before opening the lid with the back cover removed.

useless

pre-7th gen i5’s

I’ve got systems with second and third gen i5s that are handling Windows 10 just fine, seems like what the school really needs is some SSDs.

Linux would definitely run better, so that’s worth it too.

If this school is heavily embedded im the Google ecosystem, ChromeOS Flex is an option. FydeOS is similar but without the Google Account requirement.

What’s uniquely “proprietary” about Apple’s hardware that distinguishes it from a Dell or Lenovo PC?

Well, for starters, they design their own A_X_ and M_X_ silicon. When they were using Intel x86_64 silicon, the T_X_ security coprocessors were also custom / proprietary.

Consoles are all using custom AMD APUs that are still x86_64 based, so they have more in common with a Dell/Lenovo PC than anything Apple makes. Apple’s entire hardware lineup is about as proprietary as it gets.

Awesome breakdown and troubleshooting so far!

I wonder if the previous owner removed the battery because of this issue in the first place.

The fact that the flickering is full-width bands that don’t appear in screenshots indicates to me that this is a signal issue to or through the display.

An important variable to pay attention to and experiment with is the display’s refresh rate. It’s possible that is what is changing with and without the battery, though you most likely would have noticed if that were the case.

Since the problem varies based on battery presence, it would be appropriate to source a replacement battery - especially if you purchased a cheap aftermarket battery. The real deal for your system is available for $80USD from Parts People compared to $20-$40USD for low quality Amazon junk.

After the battery, my main suspicion is a fault on the mainboard leaking voltage from the battery circuit and affecting the display signals. Even without the infrequency of the problem that would be tricky to isolate and remedy.

Overall, this screams hardware issue and I don’t believe you will find a software trace of it. The problem is not visible in screenshots, so the software environment does not know that it exists.

A software approach to a hardware problem is an exercise in futility.

Test your memory with Memtest86

Test your disks too. badblocks is a Linux utility. I like the Victoria and HDDScan Windows programs because they’re less pass/fail in their reporting - you can see that a disk is degraded even if all of the sectors technically respond.

Microphone is mono They’re wondering why there’s a third contact

I’d rather edit every single post / comment to say “Fuck u/spez” but I don’t know how to use the API to do that and I don’t have the time to commit to that project :/

I swear this gets posted weekly, there’s a simple solution but it’s always missing from the comments.

Go into notification settings

Uncheck “Suggest ways I can finish setting up my device to get the most out of Windows”

While you’re at it, turn off any of the other suggestion / recommendation settings.

has to be dumped

OpenCore Legacy Patcher, Linux, ChromeOS Flex, and maybe even Windows 10 could all be options for that Mac. As-is ot would still be perfectly safe to use offline too.