You can get a USB IR receiver and use software like LIRC to map the inputs of basically any remote you have. Setting it up takes a little effort, but it works great when it’s done.
You can get a USB IR receiver and use software like LIRC to map the inputs of basically any remote you have. Setting it up takes a little effort, but it works great when it’s done.
Exactly. Doesn’t matter if they’re wired or wifi, or where they are, as long as they’re on the same network you’re fine.
If you’re only trying to use Jellyfin at home, you don’t need any reverse proxy or domain. All you need is for both devices to be on the same network, and for the Raspberry Pi to have a fixed internal IP address (through your router settings).
On the Shield, you just give the Jellyfin app that IP address and port number (10.0.0.X:8096) to connect and you’re good to go.
For a NAS, you’re usually concerned with capacity first. And you can’t buy a 20TB m2.
Automating updates is generally frowned upon, that’s when things can break. But waiting to run updates until you feel like it (instead of daily) is totally fine. I’ve been using Arch and its forks for years, and have always updated once a week unless something was wrong.
The devs have stated otherwise. The project was originally announced on an Arch Linux forum, so they included a nod in the name.
It isn’t recommended, but dpkg will install it if you really want to. You just need to handle dependencies manually.
But it’s a pretty rare issue. If something isn’t available in the official repo, AUR probably has it.
If you’re comfortable, you’re fine. Anything more would just be to speed up the rebuild, so it’s less important if you don’t mind taking the time.
There are some SFW uses too. I use it when I play things my nieces and nephews like, so they don’t flood me with party invites.
Only because I don’t want to be mistaken for a policeman.
You got a remux, which is uncompressed. You can turn those off in Radarr to avoid those surprises.
If you want to fine-tune your file sizes (and quality) further, you can set up custom formats and quality profiles. The Trash Guides explain it well, the “HD Blu-ray + Web” profile on that page is a solid starting point. It’ll usually grab 6-12GB movies, but you can tweak it if you want them smaller.
You can, and it hurts about as much as you’d imagine it would.
They’re also surprisingly easy to upgrade for their size. Swapped RAM, CPU, and hard drive in about 15 minutes total on one of mine.
Not really. Root lets you completely replace the stock YouTube install and works without microG, but that’s about it iirc. And if you have the Play Store installed, you need to make sure it doesn’t try to “update” rooted Revanced and break things.
I prefer the non-root version, even on rooted devices.
I’ve been happy with DuckDNS. Free, simple, and reliable.
If you’re just looking for a music solution, check out Navidrome. It’ll run on basically anything, and there are plenty of compatible apps for playback (Subsonic API).
Jellyfin can handle music alongside movies/shows, but the music side isn’t as feature-rich. Great for basic playback though, I run both.
If it was me, I’d just go without parity temporarily and grab another drive for that when I could. A new system should be safe enough for a while, just not forever.
You can interact with a single container if you need to, not just the whole compose group. docker compose restart jellyfin
works for your example, and “restart” can be swapped for stop or start as needed.
Splitting compose files can be a good idea, but it isn’t always necessary.
It does, but it’s done me wrong a few times so I never recommend it. For all I know it’s fine these days, but old grudges are hard do shake.
The Copilot integration they recently pushed to 11 says otherwise. They’re going hard on AI moving forward.